Nepal Trek Part 3: To Namche Bazaar

Continued from Nepal Trek Part 2 Next day to Namche. We start early, before the sun has found us, and we begin our walk in the shadow of Kwangde’s sheer granite east face as it stands out against a clear blue sky. Just outside Phakding, we cross the first of the famous suspension bridges. Bouncing... Continue Reading →

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Nepal Trek Part 2: Up The Dudh Kosi

Continued from Nepal Trek Part 1 Although it is now the most visited region in the entire Himalaya, until 1949, Nepal and by extension the Khumbu region was closed to the outside world. Whatever little information existed about this wonderful land enclosed by some of the highest peaks in the world came from the prolific... Continue Reading →

Nepal Trek Part 1: Plane to Lukla

I’ve made a bit of a habit of going for treks in the off-season. I never planned to do so, but that’s the way it seems to work every year. One of the advantages of doing so is that it’s cheap. Guides and porters come at half the rates, the trails aren’t cluttered with trekking... Continue Reading →

Secret Garden

Dharansi. A hanging valley. I savour those two words. What a delicious idea! I close my eyes and try to remember if I’ve seen one before. There was that small hanging plateau on the northern marches of the Indrahar pass in the Dhauladhar. But this was massive. I was sitting in the middle of a... Continue Reading →

Devi: The Village of Stories

The road to Shu is hard, harder than climbing to the sky. Leaning, I stare into the west and utter a long sigh… Swift rapids, wrestling cataracts descend in roaring spasms, Pound cliffs, boil over rocks, and thunder through ten thousand chasms. - Li Bai I’ve always been big on hidden paradises. Right from the... Continue Reading →

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