Kashmir: Through the Looking Glass

A visit to Kashmir brings home the dual identity of the valley

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Dark Night of the Soul: The Art of Appupen

When artist and writer George Mathen, who writes under the nom de plume Appupen, burst on to the Indian graphic novel scene with his 2009 book Moonward, what immediately caught the eye were the stark black and white images of his panels. An experimental narrator, Appupen’s books don’t deal much in words. Unless strictly necessary,... Continue Reading →

In the Mountains

I was born just thirty years ago, but I’ve wandered a million miles already. Along the River through the green grass on the banks, out to the borderlands where the red dust roils, Chewed herbs, cooked up alchemical elixirs, trying to become an Immortal. Read all the Writings, chanted the Histories aloud, trying to learn... Continue Reading →

Madhya Pradesh: On the Ken

The Ken River in Madhya Pradesh's Bundelkhand region boasts of an unique eco system. This pretty river rises in the uplands of the Vindhya plateau and flows through the Panna Tiger Reserve and upper Bundelkhand for 427km to join the Yamuna at Chilla in Uttar Pradesh. Often called the cleanest river in central India, the... Continue Reading →

The Great Wide Open: A Trek in Ladakh

Emptiness can be beautiful, and intensely terrifying. To get a an idea of just what I mean, go to the Changthang plateau in Ladakh, climb up one of the many 5,000m passes that dot the landscape, look, and hear the blood pounding in your head. But even in the dun emptiness, there are sounds—the whistling... Continue Reading →

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