Nepal Trek Part 3: To Namche Bazaar

Continued from Nepal Trek Part 2 Next day to Namche. We start early, before the sun has found us, and we begin our walk in the shadow of Kwangde’s sheer granite east face as it stands out against a clear blue sky. Just outside Phakding, we cross the first of the famous suspension bridges. Bouncing... Continue Reading →

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Nepal Trek Part 2: Up The Dudh Kosi

Continued from Nepal Trek Part 1 Although it is now the most visited region in the entire Himalaya, until 1949, Nepal and by extension the Khumbu region was closed to the outside world. Whatever little information existed about this wonderful land enclosed by some of the highest peaks in the world came from the prolific... Continue Reading →

Devi: The Village of Stories

The road to Shu is hard, harder than climbing to the sky. Leaning, I stare into the west and utter a long sigh… Swift rapids, wrestling cataracts descend in roaring spasms, Pound cliffs, boil over rocks, and thunder through ten thousand chasms. - Li Bai I’ve always been big on hidden paradises. Right from the... Continue Reading →

Where the Creatures Meet

“Camel ride sir? Great camel” “Nahi ji” “Why nahi ji sir?” What could I say? There’s only so much camel I can take, and I’d been catching myself staring at these strange, disdainful beasts all day. I can’t think of any other animal that carries off such studied insouciance, even when doing nothing more demonstrative... Continue Reading →

Up and Down the Dhauladhar Day 4: Last Man Panting

(Continued from Up and Down the Dhauladhar Day 3) The big day- pass day- we awoke to a dark, chilly morning. Dawn was still a couple of hours away when I blearily opened my eyes and was informed by Oli’s disembodied voice that it was 4 am. The cave was a blur of movement as... Continue Reading →

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