Nepal Trek Part 3: To Namche Bazaar

Continued from Nepal Trek Part 2 Next day to Namche. We start early, before the sun has found us, and we begin our walk in the shadow of Kwangde’s sheer granite east face as it stands out against a clear blue sky. Just outside Phakding, we cross the first of the famous suspension bridges. Bouncing... Continue Reading →

Nepal Trek Part 2: Up The Dudh Kosi

Continued from Nepal Trek Part 1 Although it is now the most visited region in the entire Himalaya, until 1949, Nepal and by extension the Khumbu region was closed to the outside world. Whatever little information existed about this wonderful land enclosed by some of the highest peaks in the world came from the prolific... Continue Reading →

Devi: The Village of Stories

The road to Shu is hard, harder than climbing to the sky. Leaning, I stare into the west and utter a long sigh… Swift rapids, wrestling cataracts descend in roaring spasms, Pound cliffs, boil over rocks, and thunder through ten thousand chasms. - Li Bai I’ve always been big on hidden paradises. Right from the... Continue Reading →

Up and Down the Dhauladhar Day 4: Last Man Panting

(Continued from Up and Down the Dhauladhar Day 3) The big day- pass day- we awoke to a dark, chilly morning. Dawn was still a couple of hours away when I blearily opened my eyes and was informed by Oli’s disembodied voice that it was 4 am. The cave was a blur of movement as... Continue Reading →

Free as a Bird

Winding down the twisting roads through the highlands of the Kangra valley, the sight that greets you about an hour before Kangra town is breathtaking. Up north, the gentle swell of the rolling uplands suddenly come up smack against an incredibly high jagged wall that dominates the horizon. The wall it seems, goes on forever,... Continue Reading →

Up and Down the Dhauladhar Day 3

(...continued from Up and Down the Dahuladhar Day 2) We slept well, and were very thankful for it. Today we were going to tackle unfamiliar terrain and unpredictable weather, and it would be in effect our first proper day of trekking. I knew as much of this area as one could without actually visiting it,... Continue Reading →

Up and Down the Dhauladhar Day 2

(...continued from Up and Down the Dhauladhar Day 1) Rain fell in violent gusts all night. It had become quite cold. I was more or less comfortable in my foam sleeping bag, but Oli was shivering in her flimsy sack, and KP was positively suffering. He'd caught a cold and the previous day's sudden gain... Continue Reading →

Up and Down the Dhauladhar Day 1

Winding down the twisting roads through the highlands of the Kangra valley, the sight that greets you about an hour before you hit Kangra town is breathtaking. Up north, the gentle swell of the rolling uplands suddenly come up smack against a high jagged wall that dominates the horizon. And it goes on forever, running... Continue Reading →

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