Kashmir: Through the Looking Glass

A visit to Kashmir brings home the dual identity of the valley

Advertisements

In the Mountains

I was born just thirty years ago, but I’ve wandered a million miles already. Along the River through the green grass on the banks, out to the borderlands where the red dust roils, Chewed herbs, cooked up alchemical elixirs, trying to become an Immortal. Read all the Writings, chanted the Histories aloud, trying to learn... Continue Reading →

The Great Wide Open: A Trek in Ladakh

Emptiness can be beautiful, and intensely terrifying. To get a an idea of just what I mean, go to the Changthang plateau in Ladakh, climb up one of the many 5,000m passes that dot the landscape, look, and hear the blood pounding in your head. But even in the dun emptiness, there are sounds—the whistling... Continue Reading →

Nepal Trek Part 1: Plane to Lukla

I’ve made a bit of a habit of going for treks in the off-season. I never planned to do so, but that’s the way it seems to work every year. One of the advantages of doing so is that it’s cheap. Guides and porters come at half the rates, the trails aren’t cluttered with trekking... Continue Reading →

Secret Garden

Dharansi. A hanging valley. I savour those two words. What a delicious idea! I close my eyes and try to remember if I’ve seen one before. There was that small hanging plateau on the northern marches of the Indrahar pass in the Dhauladhar. But this was massive. I was sitting in the middle of a... Continue Reading →

Create a free website or blog at WordPress.com.

Up ↑