The Great Wide Open: A Trek in Ladakh

Emptiness can be beautiful, and intensely terrifying. To get a an idea of just what I mean, go to the Changthang plateau in Ladakh, climb up one of the many 5,000m passes that dot the landscape, look, and hear the blood pounding in your head. But even in the dun emptiness, there are sounds—the whistling... Continue Reading →

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Nepal Trek Part 1: Plane to Lukla

I’ve made a bit of a habit of going for treks in the off-season. I never planned to do so, but that’s the way it seems to work every year. One of the advantages of doing so is that it’s cheap. Guides and porters come at half the rates, the trails aren’t cluttered with trekking... Continue Reading →

Devi: The Village of Stories

The road to Shu is hard, harder than climbing to the sky. Leaning, I stare into the west and utter a long sigh… Swift rapids, wrestling cataracts descend in roaring spasms, Pound cliffs, boil over rocks, and thunder through ten thousand chasms. - Li Bai I’ve always been big on hidden paradises. Right from the... Continue Reading →

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